Well Paired: Matching Food & Wine

You've done it before. At restaurants, for dinner parties, you've probably chosen a wine to accompany the meal. If truth be told, however, perhaps you never knew if your choice was "correct" or not. And yet, your untrained efforts aren't too different from what the experts do. Matthew Kaner is the general manager and wine director of the Los Angeles wine bar Covell and was recently named one of the Sommeliers of the Year by Food & Wine Magazine. Kaner shares his thoughts on pairing food and wine and examples of certain foods he enjoys with particular wines.

Pairing wine and food can be intimidating. Some people imagine it an arcane science, with sacrosanct, passed-down rules. Kaner confirms that such thinking is foolishness. "To be honest, I like to throw rules out the window when pairing wine, " he says. "There are a few guidelines, but rules are meant to be broken." Kaner insists it isn't mandatory to drink white wine with fish, for example, and steaks are not enjoyed only when there's a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon to accompany them. "Allow your imagination to take over," Kaner says. "And allow yourself to enjoy!"

Follow Kaner's advice and relax. There's no official "right" or "wrong" when pairing wine and food. It's all actually quite personal and subjective. A pairing that works magnificently for one person might not work at all for another. So dismiss the idea of restrictive rules, relax the hold even of guidelines, and embrace the freedom of the general idea: simply to choose the wine and food that, when served together, effectively bring out the finest of what each has to offer, with neither overpowering or obliterating the other.

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Put simply, it's the flavors in both the food and the wine that determine how well they pair. You may choose similarity when pairing or you might aim for contrast. A lovely fettuccine Alfredo, for instance, might be served with a large, velvety wine, such as a Cabernet Sauvignon, that complements and enriches the sumptuousness of the Alfredo sauce or with a crisp, dry wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc, that cuts through the dish's ample richness. Simply strive to maintain balance between the food and wine, making sure each is allowed to shine.

Do not, however, focus on the food and wine pairing to the exclusion of all else, Kaner advises. Consider the overall experience. If the weather is hot, for example, rethink serving that full, rich red. "There's no reason to be drinking big, heavy red wines when it's 85 degrees after the sun goes down," Kaner says. And don't forget your guests. If you're aware someone has certain wine aversions, you should abide by that, Kaner says. "No matter how appropriate a certain wine and food pairing may be, you don't want to alienate [your guests]!"

If you have a lighter red wine on hand, consider pairing it with grilled fish, pork tenderloin, spicy carne asada tacos or octopus ceviche, Kaner suggests. Pinot Noir is one example of a lighter red wine, as is Gamay (better known as Beaujolais). As for dishes to serve with more full-bodied reds, Kaner recommends lamb, grilled beef or hummus. Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec lie on the fuller side of the reds.

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With lighter white wines, Kaner prefers fish tacos or pasta salad, and oysters are a particular favorite. Some examples of lighter whites are Soave, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Richer sushi dishes, such as toro or uni, pair well with the fuller-bodied whites, Kaner says, as does grilled chicken. Chardonnay and Viognier are both full-bodied whites.

Even if the only thing you're celebrating is the company of good friends, starting the evening with a bottle of champagne is always a welcome choice. Because Champagne typically has at least a touch of sweetness, it pairs splendidly with salty foods, and Kaner recommends a classic: Champagne and caviar. He goes on to offer a surprising second suggestion: Champagne and potato chips. When asked why he suggests this pairing, Kaner answers, "Simply because they are delicious. I don't believe in overthinking it."

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Taste, experience and experiment. Seek out and explore different flavors, and imagine how they might combine with more familiar ones. Remember, the first and last word in all of this is pleasure. "At the essence of pairing wine and food is the ultimate enjoyment—of yourself and your guests," Kaner says. "Try not to take the fun out of it!"